Hidden among the fields and meanders of the Parco dell’Oglio, the charming village of Runate – with just a few dozen inhabitants – has become synonymous with fine dining. The restaurant has been expanded and enhanced over the years and now includes various dining rooms, a garden and an acetaia (where balsamic vinegar is produced). The cuisine is now overseen by Giovanni, Nadia’s son, who has inherited his mother’s style of cooking as well as her philosophy of seeing food as something to be shared, a way of showcasing the local region and a love letter to the guests that eat here. Overly technical and creative methods would seem sterile and artificial here, where the focus is instead on traditional dishes made to the highest standards with just a hint of innovation here and there. The restaurant’s kitchen garden has become more important over time and now plays a leading role in many of the dishes, such as the famous tomato and aubergine with fresh basil, as well as providing unexpected ingredients that are usually cultivated in far-off lands, such as Sichuan pepper. The dining room is in the capable hands of Antonio, Nadia’s husband, while her second son, Alberto, is the talented sommelier.